Wedding Dress

Materials
 

• 3.5m silk fabric (1.4m wide), ‘Crêpe Marocain’ is ideal
• Thin interfacing
• In-seam zip, 22cm
• Matching sewing thread
• 1 hook and 1 eyelet
• Embroidery accessories
• Free embroidery-design downloads and pattern
• BERNINA 790
• Jumbo Hoop or Mega Hoop
• BERNINA Embroidery Software V7, if wished
• BERNINA overlocker
• Zipper foot no. 35

Preparation

Print out downloadable pattern on DIN A4 paper, making sure to click on ‘None’ in the ‘Adjust page size’ printer dialogue box. Print out page 1 only at first, and check whether the square actually measures 10 x 10cm. Glue together the printed pages according to the plan on page 3.
 
 
The embroidery designs on the band sections were created for size 36. For all other sizes, we recommend that you adjust the files in the embroidery software appropriately to your size. Alternatively, the individual pattern repeat can be arranged piece-by-piece in the machine one after another on the band. For this, sketch out the band on the fabric. Roughly divide up all the fabric and embroider all pieces as shown in the drawing, then cut out the pieces. The individual pieces of the belt must be sewn into a whole before embroidering.

  

Cutting out

We recommend the following seam allowances:
For neckline, shoulder, dividing seam, belt, 1cm each; side seams and armhole, 2cm; hem 4cm.
                   
 

1.      2 x top front section
2.      4 x front band
3.      1 x wedge-shaped Piece
4.      1 x front skirt Panel
5.      2 x top back section
6.      4 x back band
7.      2 x back skirt panel

Belt approx. 430 x 8cm in total, finished width 4cm. When cutting out, make sure that no seam in the finished belt will be exactly in the centre. Sew together and embroider belt sections.

Instructions

• Iron interfacing onto belt and bands and let cool thoroughly.
• Neaten all edges.
• Close all shoulder seams, including on the bands and facings.
• Sew bust darts on front.
• With right sides facing, stitch one embroidered and one non-embroidered band together in each case along the neckline edges on the front and back sections; turn right-side-out.
• Sew bands right-sides-together to the top front and back sections. Stitch free long edges of the band facings in the ditch from the right side, leaving the bottom 10cm open on the back section.
• Place center-front (i.e. band) of front-right top section on the left section and sew together the pieces at the bottom.
• Gather bottom edges of front sections from the point to the cross mark to the size in the chart. Gather bottom edges of back sections, again as shown in the pattern.
• Tip for perfect gathering: Stitch along at a distance of 0.4 and 0.7cm from the edge with a stitch length of 5 or more, or with the long stitch. One side of each of the seams is secured through knotting. On the other side, pull both bottom threads until you’ve achieved the desired circumference. Evenly distribute the shirring and knot threads at the right length.

• Insert invisible zipper in center-back of skirt section with zipper foot no. 35. Close center-back seam.
• Gather skirt sections along the top edges as indicated in the pattern, and as described above.
• Sew top-front section right-sides-facing to front skirt panel and top-back sections right-sides-facing to back skirt section, taking care not to catch the band facing in the center back. Turn under seam allowance of back band facings along bottom edge and sew on completely.
• Close side seams from the snip at the armhole. Turn armhole seam allowances under twice and topstitch.
• Press skirt hem up and hem with the blindstitch.
• Fold the wedge-shaped piece together crossways in half with right sides facing; stitch together and turn. Put on dress and pin wedge-shaped piece underneath. Stitch in the ditch of the band from the right side, or sew on by hand along the inside edges of the band.
• Fold the belt in half lengthways with right sides facing. Sew one short seam and the long seam. Now turn the right side of the belt outwards and close the other short side by hand.
• The belt can be secured to the dress at the height of the side seam with a loose hand stitch, which is sewn invisibly between dress and belt.
• Attach hook and eyelet in center-back – see cross mark on band.