Kaffe Fassett: Zipper Pouch

Measurements for finished sampler

Our measurements are in inch/imperial system. The finished sampler for the Zipper Pouch measures 14 1/2 x 20 1/2" and is made with 4 different fabrics. You may use scraps up to 12 x 16" in various designs. The inner bag requires 12" at the width of the fabric. For details refer to Materials above and Cutting of Fabric below.

Fabric 1 (yellow):

• 1x square and then cut diagonally once to make 2 triangles (one is in the sampler), size 10 7/8 x 10 7/8"
• 2x strip, size 14 1/2 x 2 1/2"
• 2x strip, size 4 1/2 x 6 1/2"
• 2x strip, size 2 1/2 x 10 1/2"
• 1x strip for handle, size 7 x 3"
• 2x squares for tabs, size 2 x 2"

• 1x Batting, size 24 x 30"
• 2x Embroidery Stabilizer Stitch-n-Tear, suitable to the Midi Embroidery Hoop, size 12 x 16"
• 1x Vlieseline Soluvlies (wash-away stabilizer), suitable to the Midi Embroidery Hoop, size 12 x 16"
• 2x Vlieseline H 250, size 10 1/2 x 14 1/2"

• Cut all fabrics.
• Cut all stabilizers.
• Press the stabilizer to the inner bag fabric pieces.
• Stabilize the fabric to be embroidered with fabric starch.

Preparation

• Attach embroidery module and lower the feed dog.
• Attach the straight stitch plate, the Drop-Shaped Embroidery Foot #26 and a SUK/Embroidery needle.
• Thread the bobbin with bobbin thread, using the yellow high thread tension bobbin case.
• Thread the upper thread with Poly Sheen embroidery thread.

• Remember to confirm the stitch plate and/or presser foot in the touch screen whenever you change.
• Hoop the starched fabric together with two layers of Stitch-n-Tear and one layer of wash-away stabilizer into the Midi Embroidery Hoop. (Alternatively the Medium Hoop can be used for our design smaller than 4 x 4).

Embroidery

• Select the stitch design. We use the Kaffe designs folder 11 and select the large flower 3.
• The design remains centered in the embroidery hoop and size remains unchanged.
• Embroider the design.
• Cut back the wash-away stabilizer, then wash it out.
• Tear away excess stabilizer layers.

• For the Fussy Cut we prepared a template of 5 x 5", respectively with seam allowance of 1/4" a template of 5 1/2 x 5 1/2".
• For that template we "upcycled" a colored plastic folder.
• Place the template with the grain over the embroidery and mark the cutting line, then cut out, 5 1/2 x 5 1/2".

Prepare the machine for sewing

• Activate the Feed Dog & Needle stop down.
• For piecing we use the straight stitch plate.
• Attach Patchwork Foot #97D and select stitch 1303 for piecing, with a length 2 mm.
• Deactivate securing stitches (in the Setup Program).

• Thread the machine with Seralon/Metrosene (black sewing bobbin case).
• Attach the Slide-on Table.
• Patchwork Foot #97D with Patchwork Seam Guide eases precise stitching of 1/4" seam allowances.
• A design wall helps to place the pieces. Lay out all your pieces on a flat surface and check if you are happy with the arrangement and the combination of patterns & colors.

Piecing

• First sew the small triangles to the edge of the embroidered square.
• Press the seam allowances towards the printed triangles.
• Cut back excess seam allowance of the triangle corners.
• Sew this patch to the edge of the large triangle.
• Press the seam allowance towards the large triangle.

• Sew the strips of 2 1/2 x 10 1/2 onto two opposite sides.
• Press the seam allowance towards the strips.
• Now you have the first piece of 10 x 14", respectively 10 1/2 x 14 1/2".

• Onto two opposite sides of the large square 6 1/2 x 6 1/2", add the pieces of 4 1/2 x 6 1/2".
• Press the seam allowance towards the printed fabric.

• Add the strips of 2 1/2 x 14 1/2" at the opposite other sides of the square.
• Press the seam allowances towards the strips.

• Place the two rectangles of 10 1/2 x 14 1/2" right sides together and stitch together along the 14 1/2" edge.
• Press the seam allowance away from the triangles.
• Now you have your sampler of 20 1/2 x 14 1/2".

• Place the batting (cut 25 x 29") under the sampler, having an excess seam allowance of 4" on each side. That will allow you to hoop and embroider/quilt the pieces along the edge.

• Baste the sampler onto the batting. We use the basting function on the machine, stitch 30, the Straight Stitch Plate and Embroidery Foot #26.
• When sewing basting stitches, the machine sews one stitch, you pull the fabric back at the desired stitch length and sew the next stitch.

• We recommend one line of basting stitches through the short center and then stitching along the edges on all four sides.

• For quilting in the embroidery hoop, go to the Setup Program and select the material thickness, set to 7.5mm. That will make sure that the hoop does not shift while the needle is still in the fabric.

Quilt design 1

• Select the Kaffe folder 11, select design 31: the 6 x 6" design fits onto the square fabric piece.
• Hoop the 6 x 6" square of the quilt sampler centered in the Midi Embroidery Hoop.

• Quilt the design.
• This technique is used in many other projects and widely named as "Computerized Quilting".

Quilt design 2

• Next, in the Kaffe folder, select design 22, this 4.7 x 8" design fits over the large triangle.

• Hoop the large triangle parallel to the long triangle seam and centered into the Midi Embroidery Hoop.
• Attach the embroidery hoop to the module.

• By pointing onto different corner stitches, check that the design fits onto the triangle. Use the multi-function knobs if required to move or turn the design as required.
• Have the machine quilt the design.

Quilt Design 3

• Next, re-hoop the sampler in the Midi Embroidery Hoop to cover the small triangle along the edge for quilting.

• In the Kaffe folder, select design 27, 5.5 x 4.5".
• Reduce the design size to 80%. For the small triangle along the edge, turn the design by approx. 220°.

• Place the design over the triangle, leaving a seam allowance of 3/8" along the edge un-stitched.
• Placement depends on your hooping.
• Quilt the design.

• Re-hoop the samples to allow quilting the remaining small triangle.
• Turn and move the 80% sized design so that it fits over the triangle.

• Quilt the design.
• Un-hoop the sampler and press it.

Prepare the machine for sewing

• 9 mm Stitch Plate
• Reverse Pattern Foot #1D, activate Dual Feed.
• Thread the machine with Seralon/Metrosene.

Tabs and handle

• For the tabs, fold two opposite edges towards the center, wrong sides together, press.
• Then fold the piece in half, press.

• For the handle and fold the seam allowance in (like a double fold bias), press for topstitching.

• Topstitch the handle near the folded edges.
• Press the handle.

• Optional: embellish the handle with a decorative stitch, for example with stitch 7104, one of the exclusive Kaffe design stitches.
• Use the Open Embroidery Foot #20C for best view onto the stitching area.

Adding the inner fabric and zipper

• Attach the Patchwork Foot #97D, activate Dual Feed and select the straight stitch.
• Place the inner bag fabrics right on right.
• On one 14" edge, mark an 8" turning opening in the middle of the seam. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the pieces together on either side of the turning opening, secure the stitches near the opening. Press the seam allowances apart.

• Place the outer bag/samples onto the inner bag, joining middle seams, right on right.
• Trim inner fabric to match.

• Attach the Zipper Foot #4D, activate Dual Feed.
• Using a ready-made zipper (our example of 13 3/4" length), it is easier to attach the zipper onto the outer bag fabric first and then attach the inner bag onto both. For that, a stitch length of 4 is sufficient.

• Place the inner fabric onto the sampler, right sides together.

• Stitch together following the stitches of the first seam.

• Turn the project, right side out. Remove any visible basing stitches along the zipper.
• Topstitch along the zipper seam and press.

• Position the taps on both ends of the zipper, right on right side. Baste in place with a few stitches.
• To ease this step, place the project over the freearm.

• Attach the Straight Stitch Plate and Patchwork Foot #97D.
• Use the straight stitch, stitch length 3.5.
• Turn the fabrics by placing outer bag and inner bag right side on right side each.
• Open the zipper. Align the zipper with the middle seam of inner and outer bag.

• Pin all four layers together.
• Stitching slow and careful in the area of the zipper ends, sew the seam with a seam allowance of 1/4".
• Press.

• Turn the bag through the opening in the inner bag, right side out.
• Where visible, remove the basting threads along the side seam and in the bag center.

• Attach the 9 mm Stitch Plate and Reverse Pattern Foot #1D (or Edgestitch Foot #10D), activate Dual Feed.
•  Close the turning opening, stitching along the edge.

• For the handle, mark on one side seam, from the center 2 1/2" to both sides. The pouch will be 5" wide, 5" high and 9" long.

• Place the handle loosely over the side seam and 1/2" over the mark.
• Baste in place with a few stitches.

Corners and inside compartements

• Turn the pouch, wrong side out.
• Mark the end points of the corners to be sewn, 2 1/2" in from side seam and folded edge, i.e. eight marks.

• Fold the bag corners.
• Mark the sewing lines between the corner markings.
• Use pins to hold the handle in place.
• Stitch the corners.

• Finished? Nearly. The icing on the cake are the two inner compartments.

• To produce them, the tips of the sewn corners are stitched together. We recommend the Button Sew-on Program, stitch 60, with its programmed securing stitches.

• Foot 20C, the Open Embroidery Foot, offers good view for precise sewing.