Sewing instructions - Dress by Katia Convents

Piece 4 from size 46 on, stick part 4A together with 4B. 
Piece 8 from size 38 on, stick part 8A together with 8B. From size 44 on, also stick part 8C together with 8A.

Place the paper pattern pieces along the grain on the single layer fabric, with the right side of the fabric up.
Fix the pieces and cut them with seam allowances of 1.5 - 2 cm and a hem allowance of 4 cm. Transfer all markings.

Overview pattern pieces:

1          1 x right front part
2          1 x neckline facing of the right front part
3          1 x slit facing of the right front part

4          1 x left front part
5          1 x neckline facing of the left front part
6          1 x slit facing of the left front part
7          1 x Hip yoke

8          1 x back part
9          2 x collar
10        2 x sleeve
11        2 x sleeve facing

• Iron the interlining on all facings, one part of the collar and the hip yoke.
• To reinforce the fabric on the front parts, iron an approx. 6 – 7 cm wide strap of bi-elastic woven interlining along the neckline.
• Reinforce the outer collar part and the hip yoke - if not already done so.
• Check the finished sleeve length and adjust it, if necessary.
• Also iron the sleeves with interlining along the hem and the upper center.

Embroidering

• Use bobbin yarn as bobbin thread when embroidering.
• Insert a Stretch or Jersey-Embroidery Needle of the size 75-80.
• Stick each part to be embroidered on wash away stabilizer and hoop them afterwards. Additionally, stick water-soluble adhesive stabilizer on every part to be embroidered.

• Embroider the edge of the neckline of the right front part. The center line of the embroidery file is at a distance of 3 cm from the finished neckline edge. Start embroidering at the top and add another pattern repeat each time.
• Embroider the left front part mirror inverted.
• Embroider one sleeve lengthwise on the upper arm and along the hemline.
• Embroider the second sleeve mirror inverted. The wrong side of the embroidery on the wrist will be covered by the hem later.
• Embroider the outer collar part in the center back.

Back part:

• Determine the area to be gathered at the left side seam from about 6 cm below the upper zipper sign to about 3 cm above the lower zipper sign.
• Using a straight stitch at a stitch length of 5 - 6 mm, sew along the right and left of the seam line.
• Tighten both bobbin threads to match the length of the left side seam of the left front piece and knot the ends.

Sides

• Close the shoulder seams. Iron the seam allowances apart. If desired, iron interlining on the shoulder yoke, underlay it with wash away stabilizer and embroider it.
• Close the left side seam above and beneath the zip marking with the sewing thread “Seraflex” using straight stitch or a narrow zigzag or stretch stitch.
• Iron the seam allowances long the zip apart.

• Determine the area to be gathered on the left side of the right front part about 4 cm from the upper edge up to the marking “heart”.
• Using a straight stitch at a stitch length of 5 - 6 mm, sew along the right and left of the seam line.
• Tighten both bobbin threads to match the length of the hip yoke – from “heart” to “heart”- and knot the ends. Spread the ruffles evenly. 

• Place the right front part right side on right side on the back part and close the right side seam.

Edging and Facing

• Sew the slit and neckline facings right side on right side on the front parts. Iron the facings inwards and fix them with pins.
• Sew on the loose edges of the slit facings up to approx. 15 cm above the hem of the dress.
• Left front part, right side: Pin the narrow edge above the hem on the “diamond” marking of the right side of the right front part. Sew on the narrow edge in the right side seam.

Slit

• Pin the slit edges of the right front part on the butting line beneath the hip yoke marking of the left front part.
• Pin the right front part along the upper curve of the hip yoke, starting from the upper edge of the neckline (upper edge of the facing), including the gathered area down to the slit. Tip: Place the paper pattern of the hip yoke on top and start placing the pins at the «heart» marking.

Hip yoke and zipper

• Iron all the allowances of the round edges on the hip yoke to the wrong side, clip the allowances along the curves and cut them back at the tip. If necessary, fix the allowances with some stitches.
• Position the hip yoke on the left front part correctly and narrow-topstitch it all around. In doing so, the left side of the right part is sewn on, and the allowances of the right front part are concealed.
• Spread the ruffles of the back part evenly. Sew in the zip with the Zipper Foot # 35. Make sure that the waist markings «star» on the front and the back parts are aligned at the same height.

Collar

• Sew the upper edge and the narrow edges of the collar right side on right side together. Clip the allowances along the curves and cut them back in the corners.
• Turn the collar over and iron it. Baste the lower edges on top of each other.
• Pin the collar along the neckline, starting from the rear center.
• Place the neckline facings of the front parts right side on right side on top of them, pushing the collar into the corners of the facing of the front parts.
• Sew on the collar. Topstitch the outer edges of the neckline facings at the width of the facing.

Sleeves

• Close the sleeve seams.
• Gather the top shaping in the upper half and sew in the sleeve according to the markings.
• Fix the shoulder pads on the allowances of the shoulder and the sleeve insertion seam with some stitches sewn by hand.

The last steps

• Hem the hems with the Blind Stitch on the sewing machine or iron the hem with Hem Fix. Alternatively, hem by hand.
• If necessary, shorten the allowance along the dress hem before sewing.
• Topstitch the outer edges of the slit facings all around.
• Sew rhinestones on the embroidery or iron on the small rhinestones as desired.